Thursday, August 20, 2009

An increasing amount of New York City restaurants are offering gourmet baby food

GOURMET baby food? Why not? These days, even chichi eateries are catering to tiny taste buds, serving fancy feasts that venture way beyond tater tots and fish sticks.
Since our daughter was born 20 months ago, my husband and I have barely had a chance to eat out. So when we heard about this dining trend, we couldn't wait to slap a bib on Daphne and see what she thought. Here's the dish.

MOOMAH

It's got star power -- thanks to its owner, Jon Stewart's wife, Tracey -- but this cozy TriBeCa café-cum-arts-and-crafts-space is anything but haughty, serving reasonably priced finger food with a locavore twist. Daphne loved her Froggy Dipper (guacamole decorated as a frog's face served with blue corn tortilla chips; $5.95) and we all enjoyed the Super Tryers: a sampling of six bite-sized seasonal snacks, from chicken breast to whole-grain bread to goat cheese; $4.95.

The dish: Our fave by far. We came for the food, but next time we'll stay for the art projects, too.

161 Hudson St. (between Laight and Hubert streets); 212-226-0345.

ALMOND

Tucked amid the French-inspired offerings at this casual Flatiron spot is "Tiger Lily's homemade baby food," created in homage to executive chef/owner Jason Weiner's 1-year-old daughter. Available at Saturday brunch, it's a parfait of organic strawberry and mango purées layered with homemade yogurt ($3). Daphne gobbled it down, then amused herself playing with the mason jar it came in while we savored our almond hash (poached egg with duck confit and roasted potatoes, $15).

The dish: The yogurt-and-fruit-sauce combo is a healthful, affordable kid-pleaser. But it's the only option on the menu, and allergy-wary parents may want to avoid giving strawberries to babies under 12 months.

12 E. 22nd St. (between Park Avenue and Broadway); 212-228-7557.

GUSTORGANICS

This rustic Village eatery serves simple organic fare with South American flair -- think steak and eggs ($19) and grilled empanadas ($4 to $5). There are seven baby-food meals in all, including baked squash and macaroni with spinach and Parmesan cream ($8.95), which you can have your toddler's way (puréed or cut into bite-size pieces), plus four desserts, including a banana and dulce de leche purée ($6.95). Daphne finished her steamed chicken breast with zucchini and carrots but preferred our Carlito's crepe (spinach crepe with corn and cheese; $16). The dish: The baby menu seems aimed more at infants than toddlers, who may find these offerings too bland. But when we gave Daphne some of GustOrganics' signature (adult) dessert -- chocolate-dipped alfajores (sandwich cookies with dulce de leche filling; $2.45 each) -- she actually licked her plate!

519 Sixth Ave. (between 13th and 14th streets); 212-242-5800.

Various New York City chefs are serving cold soups this summer

Soup is rarely ordered in the summer -- no matter how rainy it is. This year, though, New York City chefs are taking a standard cold weather favorite and turning it into the season's most refreshing menu item by serving it cold. And we're not talking about standard gazpacho made with tomatoes and onions, either. These soups use flavor-loaded ingredients like spiced watermelon, curry powder, tarragon and even Prosecco. The end result is a chilled dish that's waist-friendly, full of taste and the perfect antidote to the sticky August heat.

Slurp this: Sake Mango Soup

* At: Harbour, 290 Hudson St.; 212-989-6410

This nautically decorated restaurant is known for its crustaceans, but diners would be remiss not the try the Sake Mango Soup ($9) for dessert. Sous pastry chef Abby Hupp creates the sweet dish by pureeing fresh mangos and blending them with sake, vanilla beans and confectionary sugar. After sitting overnight in a fridge to let the flavors meld, the mixture is strained and served with coconut sorbet and cinnamon-coated rice noodles.

Slurp this: Spicy Watermelon Gazpacho

* At: Jane, 100 W. Houston St.; 212-254-7000

This always-packed New American eatery in the heart of the West Village has a new lineup on the summer menu: a spicy watermelon gazpacho served with a warm goat cheese croquette ($9). Chef Glen Harris blends sweet watermelon with cucumbers, red onion, cilantro and jalapeños for a spicy kick. The gazpacho is then topped with diced watermelon, tomatoes and a goat cheese croquette.

Slurp this: Chilled Red Pepper Soup

* At: Counter, 105 First Ave.; 212-982-5870

This always-hopping vegetarian eatery offers a chilled red-pepper soup with fresh basil and an aged goat-cheese crouton ($8). Chef Whitney Aycock slow-roasts red peppers in a low-temperature oven, then simmers them with onion in a vegetable stock. Everything is pureed into a smooth consistency and chilled. A crouton made with aged goat cheese and torn basil is a lovely finishing touch.

Slurp this: Corn Soup and Peach and Tarragon Soup

* At: Nios, 130 W. 46th St.; 212-485-2999

Both savory and sweet chilled soups are on the menu at this Midtown wine bar and eatery. Start with corn soup accompanied by a chipotle créme fraiche ($9), which uses three different variations of corn (a juice, a stock and whole kernels), ensuring you get a mix of textures with each sip. End with a peach and tarragon soup ($9) that's made with tarragon-marinated peaches and then pureed with Prosecco.

Slurp this: Chilled Tomato Rasam

* At: Devi, 8 E. 18th St.; 212-691-1300

Indian food is more famous for its hot dishes, but the chilled tomato rasam ($6) topped with naan croutons at upscale boite Devi bucks the trend. This traditional soup from southern India, which is usually served warm, is made by blending a medley of ingredients including tomatoes, cumin, curry powder, different chilies and mustard seeds. The chilled temperature balances out the spicy kick, and the buttery naan croutons add a pleasing crunch.

Slurp this: Stone Fruit Soup

* At: Primehouse New York, 381 Park Ave.; 212-824-2600

For an ideal ending to a steakhouse meal, don't miss the Stone Fruit Soup ($10) served as a dessert at Primehouse. Taking full advantage of the summer's extra-sweet fruits, its yellow peach and vanilla bean base is topped with a nectarine-and-cherry salad. The crown of the dish is a creamy Fior di Latte sorbet (flower of milk sorbet) that's infused with lemon and orange.

Slurp this: Chilled Cucumber Soup

* At: DBGB Kitchen and Bar, 299 Bowery;
212-933-5300

Star chef Daniel Boulud's newest eatery is offering chilled cucumber soup topped with smoked salmon wrapped on a skinny breadstick and dill tapioca ($8). Chef Jim Leiken starts by sweating a mixture of leeks, onion and celery, then adds seeded cucumber and purees the mixture with yogurt, créme fraiche and blanched cucumber peels to impart the dish with its rich green color. The dill tapioca and a smoked salmon wrapped grissini on top make for tasty finishing touches.

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