Nutrition for Better Skin

You really are what you eat, and it’s reflected in the health of your skin. From hydration to staving off free-radical oxidation, certain ingredients naturally found in food or added to functional foods and beverages can help promote beauty from within.

Vitamins and antioxidants

It’s no secret that exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays causes the majority of skin damage. UV light breaks down collagen and contributes to inflammation, brown splotches known as melasma, decreased tautness and, over time, wrinkles. UV rays also deplete skin antioxidants. Despite its skin-damaging effects, UV light has been used as a treatment for some types of skin diseases. The benefits of UV light may be an indirect result of vitamin D synthesis in the human body after exposure to sunlight (Annals of Rheumatic Diseases, 2005; 64:83-86). Vitamin D is used both topically and orally as a remedy for psoriasis, an autoimmune disease characterized by thick patches of inflamed, scaly skin due to an abnormally high rate of cell division. Vitamin D boosts immune cell activity and inhibits proliferation of keratinocytes, the predominant cells in the outer layer of skin, thereby improving psoriasis (Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2009; 8:4-8).

Vitamin A is well known for helping fight acne, photoaging and psoriasis, both orally in the form of the prescription drug Accutane (for acne only) and topically in the form of retinoids. High doses of vitamin A can be toxic, but provitamin A carotenoids are generally considered safe and are converted to vitamin A in the body. Carotenoids are naturally found in human skin and, according to epidemiological and animal studies, carotenoid consumption may help prevent UV-induced skin damage and wrinkling (Clinical Dermatology, 2009; 27:195-201; American Journal of Lifestyle Medicine, 2009; 3:349-352). In a placebo-controlled study examining 24 mg per day of beta-carotene compared to 24 mg per day of mixed carotenoids (beta-carotene, lutein and lycopene) for 12 weeks, both supplemented groups showed an increase in total carotenoids in both blood and skin. And, 24 hours after exposure to UV rays, both supplemented groups showed a significant decrease in redness of the skin, indicating that carotenoids help protect against skin damage due to UV light (Journal of Nutrition, 2003; 1:98-101).

In a study examining food intake and skin wrinkling in elderly Swedish, Australian and Greek individuals, those with a high intake of vegetables, legumes and olive oil had less skin wrinkling and damage. Interestingly, Greek cuisine often combines vegetables, legumes and olive oil, which may be an especially beneficial mix as the fat in olive oil enhances the absorption of fat-soluble antioxidant vitamins and phytochemicals naturally found in vegetables and legumes (Journal of the American College of Nutrition, 2001; 20:71-80).

Food high in vitamin C may also be especially beneficial. Data from the National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey (NHANES) found that a higher intake of foods rich in vitamin C, as measured by a 24-hour recall, was associated with a decreased likelihood of a wrinkled appearance (Alternative Medicine Review, 2003; 8:359-377; The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 2007; 86:1,225-1,231).

Two other antioxidants with potential are resveratrol and alpha-lipoic acid. In vitro studies show resveratrol can suppress skin cancer progression (Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, 2009; 384:215-220). Alpha-lipoic acid, as taken in a mixed supplement that also contained pine bark extract and vitamins and minerals, was found to be more effective than a placebo for improving skin quality as measured by visual assessment of fine wrinkles, coarse wrinkles and roughness (Journal of Internal Medical Research, 2005; 33:267-272).

Oils well

The Holy Grail of fats, fish oil, may reduce inflammation from sun exposure and the development of non-melanoma skin cancer in those exposed to sunlight (Cancer Detection and Prevention, 2006; 30:224-232; Photochemistry and Photobiology, 2004; 80:231-235). However, the essential omega-6 fatty acid, linoleic acid, may do even more for those in search of the Fountain of Youth. Data from NHANES found that higher intakes of linoleic acid and lower intakes of total fat and carbohydrates were associated with better skin-aging appearance (The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 2007; 86:1,225-1,231). Conversely, a study in Japanese women found that total fat—saturated fat and monounsaturated fat—intake was associated with greater skin elasticity (Journal of Nutrition, 2010; 103:1,493-1,498).

The acid test

Hyaluronic acid, or hyaluronan, contributes to skin elasticity and attracts moisture, keeping skin hydrated (Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2004; 17:207-213). Hyaluronic acid is an effective dermal filler, helping plump up skin while softening lines and areas that appear “sunken” (Dermatologic Clinics, 2009; 27:427-432). Though it is effective if injected or in a skin-care product, the research has yet to reveal if hyaluronic acid in supplement form can help skin.

A potential alternative to hyaluronic acid is glucosamine. Glucosamine and one of its derivatives are precursors for glycosaminoglycans, including hyaluronic acid. Glucosamine supplementation may prove beneficial for skin hydration, improving the appearance of wrinkles and expediting wound healing (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2006; 5:309-315; Alternative Medicine Review, 2003; 8:359-377). In a randomized, controlled, single-blind study, 53 women taking a supplement containing glucosamine, amino acids, minerals and various antioxidants were compared to a control group of 12 women not taking the supplement. There was a statistically significant reduction in fine lines and wrinkles in those who took the supplement, although no change was found in skin hydration (Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2001; 12:47-51). Few to no studies have examined the effects on skin of taking a glucosamine supplement alone, not combined with other ingredients.

The research on ingredients, whole foods and skin is far from vast. However, some clear winners have emerged that will promote a healthier skin appearance.